REPORT: Research Links Hair Loss to Styling
A strong association has been established between certain hairstyles, some of which are popular among African-Americans, and a form of baldness. Known as traction alopecia, this variety of gradual hair loss is caused by damage to the follicle that itself results from excessive or prolonged stress on the root. Significantly, one in three African-American women suffer from this condition.
The association between hairstyling and hair loss was found by researchers at the famed Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine. Based on a review of 19 separate studies, the analysis was published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and may help educate dermatologists about the damaging effects of certain hairstyles.
One dermatologist involved in the project noted that while a person's hair can be a source of self-esteem, attempts to improve one's image with a particular style can have the opposite effect over time. Such hairdos as tight ponytails, braids and buns can in the long run have disastrous physical and psychological consequences, and women need to be aware of both the risks and the alternatives.
The analysis categorized hair practices into those producing a low, moderate and high risk of tension alopecia. The risk was based on the degree of stress placed on the follicle from physical tension, heat and the application of chemicals used to achieve a particular style. Low-risk styles included loose buns or wearing the hair down. High-risk styles included dreadlocks, weaves and extensions, all of which can be even more harmful when applied to hair that has been straightened by chemicals. The same styles may create only a moderate risk if they are not chemically treated. Hair damage is also possible if extensions are affixed directly to the scalp and the glue is then removed.
More traditional hairstyling techniques, such as thermal straightening, blow drying and the use of wigs, can also lead to hair loss. Alternatively, untreated hair is more durable and can thus be pulled and brushed without a significant risk of traction alopecia.
In their report, the researchers recommended a reduction in the use of "high-tension" hairdos or at least limitations in their time of use. It was suggested that braids be worn for no longer than three months and weaves and extensions be removed after six to eight weeks. In noting that many hairstyles are difficult to abandon, the researchers concluded that dermatologists use moderation when trying to do what is best for their patients.
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